Anchovies on toast recipe by Mat Lindsay
Could this classic be the greatest combination of all time?
Quite possibly the greatest toast of all time – a version of the Spanish tosta matrimonio
For each toast
sourdough 1 piece, toasted
salted anchovy fillets 2
boquerones (white pickled anchovies) 2
egg butter (see below)
lemon zest
For the egg butter (makes 500g)
boiled eggs 5 (boil the eggs for 6 minutes, then plunge into iced water)
dijon mustard 1-1½ tbsp
brown rice vinegar 1-1½ tbsp
almost-burnt butter 400g, melted but not hot (see directions below)
To make the almost-burnt butter, melt the required amount of unsalted butter (in this case, 400g) in a heavy-based saucepan over a low heat. When it has melted completely, increase the heat to medium, whisking frequently so it heats uniformly. The butter will foam up a bit, then fall; continue whisking and watching carefully as light reddish-brown specks begin to form at the bottom of the pan, releasing a rich nutty perfume.
Pour the brown butter into a heatproof bowl to stop it from cooking any further – it can still burn in the pan, even once it’s off the heat.
Use the butter immediately or store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to a week.
To make the egg butter, put the boiled eggs, mustard, vinegar and a pinch of flaky sea salt in a blender and blend to a very smooth puree.
With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the butter, as though you were making a thick and slightly more decadent version of mayonnaise. Season with vinegar and a little more salt if you feel it needs it.
You can store your egg butter in a sterilised jar in the fridge for up to a week.
Take your toast, still warm from the grill, and spread it with a good layer of egg butter. Have you heard the term “teeth butter”? It’s when you take a bite and your teeth leave a cast in the butter. That’s what I mean by a good layer: lots. On top, lay one salted anchovy and one boqueron side by side in wedded harmony, then do it again. Season with a sprinkle of freshly cracked black pepper and a rasp of lemon zest and cut it into two fingers to serve.
From Ester: Australian Cooking by Mat Lindsay (Murdoch Books, £30). To order a copy for £26.40 go to guardianbookshop.com
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